I captured dozens of images depicting the natural beauty of Rainbow Springs during our paddle from the state park campground to the headwaters, 1.5 miles up river. But the juxtaposition in this photo speaks volumes about the history of this place—and the notion of nature as entertainment.

Featuring some of the clearest water in the world, the Springs were a popular tourist destination in the 20s. Over time, boat tours, a gift shop, man-made waterfalls and even a zoo featuring species like deer and raccoon were added as it struggled to compete with theme parks and flashier attractions.

Parks (both private and public) have grappled with this tenuous balance throughout history. In the pursuit of increased visitation and education, how much tarting up is too much?

Rainbow Springs finally closed in the 1970s, reopening as Rainbow Springs State Park in the mid-90s. The waterfalls, gardens, boat tours and empty zoo structures remain, but its real beauty is all natural.

STAY: Rainbow Springs State Park Campground offers 51 full hook-up sites, a handful of walk-in tent sites, and access to the Rainbow River. There’s an easy-to-walk-to swimming/snorkeling area and non-motorized boat launch. They even provide hand carts to tote your boat from campsite to water’s edge. Nice!

PLAY: Canoe, kayak, and tube rentals are all available as well as guided dive tours. If you are staying at the state park campground you can visit the park for free, otherwise an entrance fee applies.