Although Grand Marias and points north were very high on my destination wish list, I ultimately conceded both to practical and logistical concerns. The compromise route wound through Minnesota’s lakes region and past the Headwaters of the Mississippi River on the way to Fargo—where we caught up with family, mail and laundry.

We stayed at four different campgrounds on the shores of four different lakes during our hopscotch across the state. I was surprised at how different they were from one another, each possessing its own ecosystem and cultural character.

The Mille Lacs region celebrates its native American heritage as well as a long history of family-run “resorts” providing ice fishing and “launch service” to eager sportsmen. Fishing boats of 50 feet and more are a 70-year tradition on Lake Mille Lacs. Many were hand made and have been lovingly maintained over the years by generations of fishing families.

In stark contrast, Brainerd’s city campground on Lum Lake had a decidedly transient feel. Local fishermen ducking out of work launched modest boats near an underused playground. When we woke in the morning, neighbors who had pulled in the night before were already on their way out.

The 120-site Army Corps of Engineers campground on Cross Lake was chock-full of families. Most with boats in tow. The village of Crosslake offered more resort amenities than some of our previous stops. Walleye obsessed patriarchs split water time with family time, a compromise that was evident in their boat choices, which trended large and featured a surplus of upholstered seating options.

Perhaps the biggest boats of all, however, were waiting for us in Bemidji. Our arrival in town coincided with the opening ceremonies of the 10th annual Lake Bemidji Dragon Boat Festival. Teams of 16-20 paddlers, plus a drummer, guided long colorful vessels sporting dragon heads and tails back and forth along Lake Bemidji’s downtown waterfront. Friends, families and colleagues tailgated in the athletes village awaiting their next match as spectators gathered on bleachers and the lake's grassy slope. It was a little bit Sunday in the Park with George. Not what you’d expect just a few hundred feet from an eighteen foot Paul Bunyon statue.

Eat: Brigid’s Cross Irish Pub is named for the patron saint of agriculture, farmers & fishermen, and claims to be the second Irish pub on the Mississippi. The place fairly oozes character and the potato cakes (with onion jam and sour cream or smoked salmon and dill) were pretty great.

Play: Bemdji State University operates a beautiful boathouse on the shores of the lake near Diamond Point renting canoes, kayaks, SUPs and even sailboats at very affordable prices. Prefer land-based recreation? The 120-mile Paul Bunyon Trail runs along the east coast and terminates at Lake Bemidji State Park.