We have made every effort, throughout this adventure, to remain flexible and work intuitively, letting serendipity be our guide. Tonight we are camped beside a tire and brake shop. Tomorrow we will decide whether to give Glacier National Park another chance.

Three days ago, while preparing to leave Lake Mary Ronan State Park en route to Glacier, the mechanism responsible for making our dinette "pop out" misfired—a potentially epic mechanical meltdown. Disaster was narrowly averted when, after thirty minutes of coaxing and prodding, our extended room was finally retracted and road-ready. Strike one.

I spent most of the drive to Glacier's west gate sussing out repair facilities within a 100 mile radius. I was so engrossed that the gradual increase in smoke intensity slipped by unnoticed, as did the iconic peaks and lakes that park is known for. Plumes from fires in Washington and Idaho reduced visibility and made the air, as one ranger put it, "unhealthful." Strike two.

We decided to tough it out, checking into our site at the Fish Creek campground and making tentative plans for the next day while leaving room for the possibility that one of the messages I had left for repair shops might be returned (they were not). During our shuttle up the Going To The Sun Road, the driver resorted to telling us about things you would see, if not for the dense smoke, current drought and/or unusually dry winter.

Even given that, I found Glacier sufficiently interesting and beautiful to risk lung damage. On the morning of our next full day in the Park we were preparing to drive to the Lake McDonald boat launch in Apgar Village where we would have lunch before a hazey paddle. Just a mile into our 2.5 mile drive, it was clear that something was very wrong. One-half mile later we knew what it was. Our left front brake had locked up and was now smoking-hot. Following an hours-long process, a guy named Dirk showed up to tow us into town. Strike three.

Tomorrow morning, after the parts arrive, our new brakes will be installed and we'll be free to go. And although I feel as though we have unfinished business in Glacier, I'm thinking it might be time to admit defeat and head south. Before something else goes wrong.

Eat: Carefully prepared local & organic food and drink are delivered to your barstool boasting alpine lake views framed by historic architecture at Lucke's Lounge at Glacier's Lake McDonald Lodge. An excellent way to enjoy the ambience without the overnight price tag.

Explore: Hop on, hop off free shuttles snake their way up and down Glacier's Going to the Sun Road connecting the park's west and east gates, while reducing emissions and congestion. It's a great way to meet people, get recommendations and see the park.